The souscription, or subscription, purchase model is a long-standing tradition in the watch industry, particularly among high-end independent makers such as Philippe Dufour and F. P. Journe. Essentially a refined form of made-to-order production, it requires buyers to place a deposit upfront to finance the creation of the watch, with the balance paid upon completion. This approach has also been adopted by watch media platform Monochrome for its collaborative projects, and they are now unveiling their fifth edition—this time in partnership with Angelus: the Monochrome Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre.
The watch is based on the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre, a 37mm monopusher chronograph featuring a bi-compax layout and a peripheral telemeter scale. Telemeter scales are relatively niche, traditionally linked to military use rather than the motorsport-inspired tachymeter. A telemeter calculates distance by measuring the time between a visible event and the sound that follows—such as an artillery blast or a lightning strike—whereas a tachymeter measures speed over a known distance, like a racetrack. By replacing the telemeter with a tachymeter scale, Monochrome has given the Angelus chronograph a distinctly more racing-oriented character.
Beyond the change in function, Monochrome has also reworked the design of the scale itself. Rather than using a conventional single ring around the perimeter of the dial, they’ve introduced a snailed tachymeter, with the scale spiralling inward. Traditionally, this snailing treatment is employed when scales are placed at the centre of the dial rather than along its edge. A notable modern reference point is the Omega Chronoscope, though the execution differs slightly—while the Chronoscope layers multiple scales across the dial wherever space allows, the Monochrome Angelus applies the spiral approach with far greater restraint.
When it came to the dial, a salmon tone was initially considered, but it proved too close to the existing rose-bronze telemeter model. Instead, Monochrome turned to the Angelus archives for inspiration. There, they found the answer in a pale gold dial from a historic timepiece, which became the foundation for the Montre de Souscription 5 Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre. The dial is finished with a coating of 2N pale gold, delivering a warm, vintage character while maintaining excellent legibility thanks to its contrast with the black printed markings.
Powering the watch is the Calibre A5000, a modern evolution of a celebrated historical chronograph movement produced for Angelus by La Joux-Perret. Its origins trace back to the 045MC, a calibre developed by THA—the movement specialist founded by F. P. Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. Following THA’s closure, the rights to the movement were acquired by La Joux-Perret. The result is a hand-wound, monopusher chronograph with a 42-hour power reserve, distinguished by its elegant architecture, best appreciated through the exhibition caseback.
The watch will be offered via the souscription programme from 29 January at 2pm, available for a limited window of 10 days or until 20 pieces are subscribed, whichever comes first. An initial deposit of SGD 7,550 is required, with a total price of SGD 27,900. This places it squarely in line with the pricing of the existing telemeter models, making the positioning entirely expected.
